3w4dw pattern!
Apr. 25th, 2011 08:02 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
katieintheworld posting in ![[community profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/community.png){kind=small}
knittingToe-up Basketcase Socks by katieintheworld
It all seemed very simple in theory. I found the variegated yarn I have always loved and never been able to show off properly in a sock, I pulled my favorite toe and heel notes and I started knitting and making notes. And then ripping back and starting over. Entrelac may be lofty and stretchy in all directions, but when you introduce it after knitting a stockinette toe it adds stitches. A lot. So where my normal sock is usually 64-72 stitches to fit me on the same needles, I stopped the toe for this sock at 54 stitches, and there’s still plenty of room. It looks like there are far too many stitches on the needle at the leg, but it’s stretchy enough that it’s fine. You do need to adjust stitches at the cuff, though, so the pattern will tell you to end with six stitches for each square you’ve finished into the rib section.
SIZE Women's medium
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Circumference: 8 inches, unstretched
MATERIALS Handmaiden Fine Yarns Casbah Sock color: terra cotta; 1 skein = 355.0 yds
Set of 5 US #2/2.5mm double-point needles and one long circular (recommended for the entrelac)
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker or safety pin (optional)
GAUGE 30 sts/41 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round
USEFUL LINKS:
Entrelac Beyond the Basics, Eunny Jang
Entrelac Basic Scarf, Knitting Daily
Dr. Girlfriend’s How to Knit Backwards (left-handed knitting)
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
K2tog: knit two together.
P2tog: purl two together.
YO: yarn over
kbl: knit to back of the loop
ssk: slip slip knit.
Entrelac Squares (Worked back and forth in left and right leaning squares, in multiples of 5 sts):
Right leaning squares
Row 1: (WS) On the right bare edge of the left leaning squares (or the set-up row triangles) below, pick up 5 stitches and purl them, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, turn.
Row 3: P4, p2tog using one live stitch from the left leaning square below. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 four times until no live stitches from the square below remain. Do not turn the work, rather repeat from row 1 for each right leaning square.
Left leaning squares (six)
Row 0 (first square only): After finishing the last right leaning square, do not turn, rather purl 5, turn. Go to row 3.
Row 1: On the left bare edge of the right leaning squares below, pick up and knit 5, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p4, turn.
Row 3: K4, ssk using one live stitch from the next right leaning square below. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 four times until no live stitches from the square below remain. Do not turn the work. Repeat from Row 1 for each left leaning square.
Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end of rnd.
Every round is the same.
DIRECTIONS
Modified Wedge Toe: cast on 22 using Judy's magic cast-on.
Round 1: place beginning of round (beg) marker, k1, yo, knit 9, yo, k1, place mid-round (mid) marker, k1, yo, knit 9, yo, k1.
Round 2: k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k2, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k1.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 a total of 5 times (42 stitches.)
Then:
Round 1: Slip beg marker, k1, yo, knit 19, yo, k1, slip mid marker, k1, yo, knit 19, yo, k1.
Round 2: Slip beg marker, k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k1, slip marker, k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from beg marker, kbl, k1.
Round 3: knit.
Round 4: slip marker, k1, yo, knit to two stitches from mid marker, yo, k1, slip mid marker, k1, yo, knit to two stitches from beg marker, yo, k1.
Repeat rounds 2-4 3 times, repeat rounds 2-3 (end with a knit row) (54 stitches.)
Or: cast-on and knit your favorite toe, carefully increasing to 54 stitches, or approximately 75% of your normal foot circumference stitches.
Arrange stitches so that there are 30 stitches (or any multiple of five) on the top needle, and the beg & mid markers are on either side of that needle.
***
Fill in the sole of the foot:
Row 1: k to beg marker, slip marker, pick up 1 stitch along the right side of the first set-up triangle and knit, turn the work.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl to mid marker, slip marker, purl one stitch from the active five of the last set-up triangle, turn the work.
Repeat rows 1-2, knitting one additional stitch per row, until all the picked up stitches from the first set-up triangle and all the live stitches from the last set-up triangle have been incorporated. End at the middle of the round, wrong side facing, ready to begin the right leaning squares on the top of the foot.
Begin entrelac squares.
Work entrelac pattern for Right and Left Leaning Squares, following each left leaning squares row by filling in the sole of the foot (above.) You will work six left leaning squares and five right leaning squares in pattern.
Continue until sock measures 2" less than the total desired length of foot. After completing 6 rows of a stockinette section on the bottom of the foot, place waste yarn marker for an afterthought heel:
Sl1, drop the active yarn (do not break.) Knit 30 stitches on waste yarn, return waste yarn stitches to left needle. Pick up the active yarn thread and knit over the waste yarn row with live yarn. Complete the stockinette section (4 rows past the waste yarn). Begin leg section.
****
Leg: Complete the left leaning squares to mid marker, do not turn. Rather, k2tog, then knit a set up row of six left leaning triangles.
For each triangle:
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, do not turn. The first base triangle has been completed.
Repeat row 1-7 5 times (the last triangle will be on live stitches from a right leaning square).
At the beg marker, turn the work, and complete right leaning squares for the entire round. Then turn the work and complete the left leaning squares for the whole round. Work the entrelac pattern in the round in this way, turning the work only at the beginning of the round.
****
Cuff:
When the leg is 6” long (or desired length), complete a round of right leaning squares and set up finishing triangles.
Set up finishing triangles
First triangle only:
Row 1: On the left bare edge of the right leaning squares below, pick up and purl 5, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, k3, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 3: (WS) Sl 1, p3, Turn.
Rows 4: Sl 1, k2, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, p2, Turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, k1, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, p1, Turn.
Rows 8: Ssk, k1, do not turn. (six stitches per triangle)
****
Afterthought Heel: may be worked when you’ve completed the leg section, or when several inches of the leg have been completed.
At the heel, pick up and knit 32 stitches on either side of the waste yarn marker, removing the waste yarn to make the stitches live. Place marker at each corner
Round 1: knit
Round 2: K1, ssk, knit to three stitches from mid marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to three stitches from the beginning of the round marker, k2tog, k1.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 six times until there are 36 stitches total remaining, then repeat round 2 four times until there are 20 stitches remaining. Graft the seam using Kitchener stitch.
****
Authors notes: Apparently, there are sock knitters and then there are all the other knitters. I’ve dabbled in different knitting techniques, but always with the intention of putting them into a sock. This is my first pattern.
Test knitting betas:wyomingnot and domtheknight. Thank you so much.
Warnings: entrelac, afterthought heel, toe-up
Rating: moderately spicy.
Pattern on Ravelry!
katieintheworld |
When you knit entrelac flat, and you want a straight edge on each side, you find you must knit triangles not only as a set up row, but on each edge of the piece too. Why not simply join the piece in the round and knit those side triangles as part of the stockinette bottom of the foot, I asked myself (or if you want to be very geometric about it, as one long parallelogram?) That way you can have a wonderful, soft, squishy, warm entrelac sock without having the pattern stitches on the sole of your foot. |
It all seemed very simple in theory. I found the variegated yarn I have always loved and never been able to show off properly in a sock, I pulled my favorite toe and heel notes and I started knitting and making notes. And then ripping back and starting over. Entrelac may be lofty and stretchy in all directions, but when you introduce it after knitting a stockinette toe it adds stitches. A lot. So where my normal sock is usually 64-72 stitches to fit me on the same needles, I stopped the toe for this sock at 54 stitches, and there’s still plenty of room. It looks like there are far too many stitches on the needle at the leg, but it’s stretchy enough that it’s fine. You do need to adjust stitches at the cuff, though, so the pattern will tell you to end with six stitches for each square you’ve finished into the rib section.
SIZE Women's medium
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Circumference: 8 inches, unstretched
MATERIALS Handmaiden Fine Yarns Casbah Sock color: terra cotta; 1 skein = 355.0 yds
Set of 5 US #2/2.5mm double-point needles and one long circular (recommended for the entrelac)
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker or safety pin (optional)
GAUGE 30 sts/41 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round
USEFUL LINKS:
Entrelac Beyond the Basics, Eunny Jang
Entrelac Basic Scarf, Knitting Daily
Dr. Girlfriend’s How to Knit Backwards (left-handed knitting)
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
K2tog: knit two together.
P2tog: purl two together.
YO: yarn over
kbl: knit to back of the loop
ssk: slip slip knit.
Entrelac Squares (Worked back and forth in left and right leaning squares, in multiples of 5 sts):
Right leaning squares
Row 1: (WS) On the right bare edge of the left leaning squares (or the set-up row triangles) below, pick up 5 stitches and purl them, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k4, turn.
Row 3: P4, p2tog using one live stitch from the left leaning square below. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 four times until no live stitches from the square below remain. Do not turn the work, rather repeat from row 1 for each right leaning square.
Left leaning squares (six)
Row 0 (first square only): After finishing the last right leaning square, do not turn, rather purl 5, turn. Go to row 3.
Row 1: On the left bare edge of the right leaning squares below, pick up and knit 5, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p4, turn.
Row 3: K4, ssk using one live stitch from the next right leaning square below. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 four times until no live stitches from the square below remain. Do not turn the work. Repeat from Row 1 for each left leaning square.
 |
If you are knitting the foot portion of the sock, follow the left leaning squares by immediately rotating to the sole of the foot and filling in 10 rows of stockinette, knit back and forth. If you are in the leg portion of the sock, knit right leaning squares to the beginning of the round, turn, knit left leaning squares until the beginning of the round, turn and continue. |
Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end of rnd.
Every round is the same.
DIRECTIONS
Modified Wedge Toe: cast on 22 using Judy's magic cast-on.
Round 1: place beginning of round (beg) marker, k1, yo, knit 9, yo, k1, place mid-round (mid) marker, k1, yo, knit 9, yo, k1.
Round 2: k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k2, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k1.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 a total of 5 times (42 stitches.)
Then:
Round 1: Slip beg marker, k1, yo, knit 19, yo, k1, slip mid marker, k1, yo, knit 19, yo, k1.
Round 2: Slip beg marker, k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from mid marker, kbl, k1, slip marker, k1, kbl, knit to 2 stitches from beg marker, kbl, k1.
Round 3: knit.
Round 4: slip marker, k1, yo, knit to two stitches from mid marker, yo, k1, slip mid marker, k1, yo, knit to two stitches from beg marker, yo, k1.
Repeat rounds 2-4 3 times, repeat rounds 2-3 (end with a knit row) (54 stitches.)
Or: cast-on and knit your favorite toe, carefully increasing to 54 stitches, or approximately 75% of your normal foot circumference stitches.
Arrange stitches so that there are 30 stitches (or any multiple of five) on the top needle, and the beg & mid markers are on either side of that needle.
***
 |
Foot: Round 1: set up entrelac triangles. For each triangle: Row 1: (RS) K2, turn. Row 2: (WS) P2, turn. Row 3: K3, turn. Row 4: P3, turn. Row 5: K4, turn. Row 6: P4, turn. Row 7: K5, do not turn. The first base triangle has been completed. Repeat row 1-7 5 times, for six triangles total in the set-up row on the top of the foot. Do not turn. |
Fill in the sole of the foot:
Row 1: k to beg marker, slip marker, pick up 1 stitch along the right side of the first set-up triangle and knit, turn the work.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl to mid marker, slip marker, purl one stitch from the active five of the last set-up triangle, turn the work.
Repeat rows 1-2, knitting one additional stitch per row, until all the picked up stitches from the first set-up triangle and all the live stitches from the last set-up triangle have been incorporated. End at the middle of the round, wrong side facing, ready to begin the right leaning squares on the top of the foot.
Begin entrelac squares.
Work entrelac pattern for Right and Left Leaning Squares, following each left leaning squares row by filling in the sole of the foot (above.) You will work six left leaning squares and five right leaning squares in pattern.
Continue until sock measures 2" less than the total desired length of foot. After completing 6 rows of a stockinette section on the bottom of the foot, place waste yarn marker for an afterthought heel:
Sl1, drop the active yarn (do not break.) Knit 30 stitches on waste yarn, return waste yarn stitches to left needle. Pick up the active yarn thread and knit over the waste yarn row with live yarn. Complete the stockinette section (4 rows past the waste yarn). Begin leg section.
****
Leg: Complete the left leaning squares to mid marker, do not turn. Rather, k2tog, then knit a set up row of six left leaning triangles.
For each triangle:
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn.
Row 2: (WS) P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, do not turn. The first base triangle has been completed.
Repeat row 1-7 5 times (the last triangle will be on live stitches from a right leaning square).
At the beg marker, turn the work, and complete right leaning squares for the entire round. Then turn the work and complete the left leaning squares for the whole round. Work the entrelac pattern in the round in this way, turning the work only at the beginning of the round.
****
Cuff:
When the leg is 6” long (or desired length), complete a round of right leaning squares and set up finishing triangles.
Set up finishing triangles
First triangle only:
Row 1: On the left bare edge of the right leaning squares below, pick up and purl 5, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, k3, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 3: (WS) Sl 1, p3, Turn.
Rows 4: Sl 1, k2, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, p2, Turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, k1, ssk (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, p1, Turn.
Rows 8: Ssk, k1, do not turn. (six stitches per triangle)
 |
Each repeating triangle: Row 1: (RS) Pick up and knit 5 stitches. Turn. Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p4, turn. Row 3: Sl 1, k3, ssk, (using one live stitch from the right leaning square below), turn. Row 4: Sl 1, p3, turn. Row 5: Sl 1, k2, ssk, turn. Row 6: S1 1, p2, turn. Row 7: Sl 1, k1, ssk, turn. Row 8: S1 1, p1, turn. Row 9: Sl 1, ssk, do not turn, knit 1. Repeat 1-9 nine times until no live stitches from the squares remain. Knit one round, do not turn. (66 stitches ) Work in rib pattern for 1.5”. Bind off loosely. |
****
Afterthought Heel: may be worked when you’ve completed the leg section, or when several inches of the leg have been completed.
At the heel, pick up and knit 32 stitches on either side of the waste yarn marker, removing the waste yarn to make the stitches live. Place marker at each corner
Round 1: knit
Round 2: K1, ssk, knit to three stitches from mid marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to three stitches from the beginning of the round marker, k2tog, k1.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 six times until there are 36 stitches total remaining, then repeat round 2 four times until there are 20 stitches remaining. Graft the seam using Kitchener stitch.
****
Authors notes: Apparently, there are sock knitters and then there are all the other knitters. I’ve dabbled in different knitting techniques, but always with the intention of putting them into a sock. This is my first pattern.
Test knitting betas:
wyomingnot and domtheknight. Thank you so much.Warnings: entrelac, afterthought heel, toe-up
Rating: moderately spicy.
Pattern on Ravelry!
(no subject)
Date: 2011-05-02 03:54 am (UTC)I noticed you also thought the socks were loose in the ankle, which, fwiw, I agree with, though it doesn't bother me overmuch. How would you tighten up the ankle? Incorporate decreases in the heel? I'd been thinking that you'd probably want to decrease before doing the set-up triangles row over the heel--would there be a way to decrease in a way that would magically tighten up the corners of the heel too, I wonder?
eta: HOMG AWESOME SOCKS. I just got my first skein of Lorna's Laces over winter break and the yarn is just elegant. My yarn, however, is boring gray and not as PARTY-INA-SOCK as yours. Fabulous!
(no subject)
Date: 2011-05-02 04:28 am (UTC)I have a number of fancy light dress socks, and with a pair of them on underneath, the socks are perfect. I may just wear them like that all the time, which would fix that problem, although it would be nice to have them be perfect without it.
I think I forgot to mention, the heel as it is now is very nice - I thought it might have been too shallow in the original version, but with the changed placement in the final version it's just right and works out very well.
I really like Lorna's Laces. The yarn is fab, but also the colors are just delicious. I have a couple other bright combinations that I've been holding for the right pattern (maybe I'll just make your socks over and over, since these worked so well). 'Party in a sock' is such an accurate name!