(no subject)
Dec. 5th, 2012 12:38 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
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Hi guys, lurker and knitting n00b here. I apologise if there's an answer to this somewhere on the community but, at the time of writing, I don't have time to look.
See, I like making stuffed toys - I can also crochet, so that's easy, just going round and round, but with knitting, double pointed needles present me with a problem - laddering between the stitches over two needles. Is there any way to fix this?
I suspect the answer is "practice", or "circular needles". Practice I can do; circular needles, not so much (short of cash and nearby sources to purchase from). Any advice would be gratefully received, as it's driving me demented.
ETA: I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who left comments and advice on this post. You are all awesome! :D
See, I like making stuffed toys - I can also crochet, so that's easy, just going round and round, but with knitting, double pointed needles present me with a problem - laddering between the stitches over two needles. Is there any way to fix this?
I suspect the answer is "practice", or "circular needles". Practice I can do; circular needles, not so much (short of cash and nearby sources to purchase from). Any advice would be gratefully received, as it's driving me demented.
ETA: I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who left comments and advice on this post. You are all awesome! :D
(no subject)
Date: 2012-12-10 08:35 pm (UTC)Use 5 needles (4 with stitches, 1 working). This cuts down on the angle between needles and lessens the chance of ladders. It’s also typically useful for socks because there are usually 4 or 8 pattern repeats around the leg, and a lot easier in regard to the heel.
When going from one needle to the next, knit the next 1 or 2 stitches with the needle you just finished filling, and then slip them onto the empty needle. It’s a lot easier to knit with a needle that already has a few stitches on it. This also helps with ladder problems, yet allows you to maintain the same stitches on the same needles. Try not to loosen the stitches too much when slipping them though.
I usually keep the needle in my left under the next needle and the needle in my right over the previous needle. This way each needle has one side over and the other under. It allows the best flexibility for me when trying to manipulate multiple stitches (ie k3tog or whatever). ETA: I also keep the next needle on the left between my index and middle finger… seems to keep it under control. It may work better for you some other way though. Experiment.
I also usually cast all stitches onto one needle and then divide them up. This is similar to the “knit the next stitch and then slip it” point though… helps avoid ladders.
When I go to join it into the round, I switch the first and last stitches. I think it makes a tighter join so there isn’t a gap there. Just make sure the stitches all have their “bottoms” at the underside of the needle and you shouldn’t have too much trouble with twisting.
Last tip. Don’t use super long needles when you only have a few stitches on the needle (6” work for socks… 8” seem way too long and unwieldly unless you’re making super large socks). Also, try to keep the needles centered (ie, don’t have the stitches at the end of one side of the needle with a bunch of empty needle sticking out the other side). It makes it less… pointy.
http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/115169/1-25#17